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Invisible fence with huskies.


Franklin Phil

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Has anyone tried invisible fencing with huskies? I'm looking for more piece of mind. Obviously it wouldn't be the only fence. I've got my dog area all fenced off, but am having some trouble with Kodo digging around one area. I thought it might be a good way to keep Kodo away from the base of the fence. Good idea or not?

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Invisible meaning shock?

Well, when I made this post I thought it had something to do with sound waves. But about 10 minutes ago I called someone I knew that has used them for years. He informed me that it IS a light shock. I explained to him that I wanted to run it along the base of a fenceline where Kodo is digging. I really don't want to lose this dog. He explained to me that with these flags that are placed strategically along the wire, plus with the collar that emits a buzzing to warn them as they get close, it is a training tool. He said after a week Kodo won't go near the fence and you can shut it off.

I know this seems rash and now I want to know what everyone thinks. But if it will help me keep my dogs I will consider it. I will also listen to ANY other alternative. However, I brought home a problem dog to a totally working system with Adak. But if Kodo dug out he will take my Adak with him. I'm willing to do whatever it takes to keep my dogs here safe and happy for the next 20 years.

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I don't like shock anything personally. From most dogs I've known that have delt with it, it either makes them fearful of going out there where it is, or it has no effect. My aunts dog would have had to be bbq'd to get the point.

Could you afford about uuh. I forget. 3ft? Outline of the fence and pooring cement filling in? Or digging enough to tightly fit those cement brick things all along the fence?

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I don't like shock anything personally. From most dogs I've known that have delt with it, it either makes them fearful of going out there where it is, or it has no effect. My aunts dog would have had to be bbq'd to get the point.

Could you afford about uuh. I forget. 3ft? Outline of the fence and pooring cement filling in? Or digging enough to tightly fit those cement brick things all along the fence?

Yea, I'm also considering a concrete footing. That would be a LOT more money and would take significantly more time, but I have to think about that too. There really is one problem that the footing and all it's expense wouldn't even solve. Still, Jaimie, it's an excellent suggestion that I'm going to think about. My immediate problem is I have an issue. My dogs that come to live with me are forever dogs no matter the issues that come up. So I've got a small problem that could erupt into a huge problem if one, or worse, both my dogs ran off. It would kill me.

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I fully understand. Kissu got out once for about an hour and a half and I spent the whole time bawling while looking for him. But if Kodo were to be one of those dogs that the shock doesn't effect, it wouldn't stop him leaving but may stop him from coming back. If say someone left the gate open, the temptation to leave would outweigh having to put up with the shock for a second. But when he would want to come back, the shock might be more annoying than anything. So why go back in when he can stay on the other side and do whatever he wants?

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Thanks Al for the thoughtful response. Do you care to elaborate?

No, not really. Go read through this thread and you'll probably know more than you want to about how they work and peoples feelings.

There is a bit about the issue in Wales, then the thread goes off-topic to shock collars in general.

If, after you read that, you still want my comments, I'll make them then.

(( I'm not trying to be difficult, just this *is* pretty much asking for a repeat of that thread. ))

and last comment, shock collars are normally ineffective because of the amount of hair on a Husky's neck ...

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I do think there are soundwave ones, but I haven't heard much about them. That probably costs more too. I do know there are invisible fences that don't involve shocking, which is why I didn't jump the gun writing a story about why I don't like shock. But I haven't heard much about them.

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the newer ones dont repeatedly shock the dogs and the shock is no more than a static shock that you get from touching a doorknob or when you get off a trampoline. i myself have tried shocking myself with one and it is not inhuman. the shock is intended to give the dog a similar sensation as a alfa nipping there neck as discipline. huskys on the other hand are hard headed and strong willed so the shock collars normally dont work but in the case that you have another fence then it might be a good idea. you could also get a remote spray collar if you dont like the idea of shocking and sit by a window and spray him when he starts digging

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Thread? Actually the hair on the husky neck thing makes sense. I'm not going to use it. I didn't even know they were shock. I thought it had to do with a sound wave.

So I'm not the only one who has problems picking out the embedded threads (( look at "this thread" in my original message ))

http://www.husky-owners.com/forum/threads/dog-owner-fined-%C2%A32-000-for-use-of-shock-collar.26754/

I am not aware of any invisible fences which don't depend on electric shock as the last deterrent. Most use audio as the first warning - once the dog has learned to associate the sound / vibration with the "no go" zone.

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the newer ones dont repeatedly shock the dogs and the shock is no more than a static shock that you get from touching a doorknob or when you get off a trampoline. i myself have tried shocking myself with one and it is not inhuman. the shock is intended to give the dog a similar sensation as a alfa nipping there neck as discipline. huskys on the other hand are hard headed and strong willed so the shock collars normally dont work but in the case that you have another fence then it might be a good idea. you could also get a remote spray collar if you dont like the idea of shocking and sit by a window and spray him when he starts digging

Huh. Thanks. It's just a static shock? I don't know.

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That's a good idea. I'll look into that. So there IS an invisible fence that is based on sound waves? See, that's what I thought. But all the searching I'm doing are all shock collars. Hmm...back to square one.

No, the collars I looked at use:



  • vibration

  • sound

  • shock

I think in that order. Some may just be sound/vibration as the first warning, but the final is a shock. And if you think it's just like a static shock, look at the vid that was put up where a teenager uses on on himself. Well, kids will be kids, but it's obvious that in short order the shock becomes more than just a "little irritating".

I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that in the hands of an experienced trainer there *might* be some justification; in the hands of John Q there is none at all.

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Is that what you are worried about with Kodo? Accidentally leaving the gate open again?

No Jaimie. It has nothing to do with the gate at all. In fact I had no intentions of using it there. There's a short length of fence that he has not only dug under, but also began breaking the wood off. It's not a strong fence, but Adak never bothered it. Getting through this weaker fence does not get him out of the yard, just into a different part of the yard. I just want to train him to simply stay away from this fence PERIOD. He would not run through the collar barrier because theres a fence there. I was thinking he certainly wouldn't spend time digging in the effective range of the collar.

I have a dog that in all likelyhood would have been euthanized by now because he was a problem. I adore this dog and am willing to do whatever it takes to keep him safe. Top on the priority list: keep him in the yard.

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Ooh. In that case maybe a tie out? One long enough that would make him stop just short of where he's been working. I don't have any ideas but someone may have training tips to give you to keep him away from there when you're out there.

But honestly, sounds like a new fence with cement lining would be best. Very expensive yes. But if its doable its well worth it!

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And if you think it's just like a static shock, look at the vid that was put up where a teenager uses on on himself.

.

did the teen have fur??? yes the shock is more powerful on direct skin but dogs have fur. these are the ratings for voltage on an electric fence

First of all, a controller must produce enough voltage (electrical

pressure) to overcome the resistance of the hair and hide of the animal. This is termed the guard voltage and is given by the type of livestock; minimum values are:

• 700 volts for short-haired animals (such as cows)

• 2000 volts for long-haired animals (such as sheep)

• 2500 volts or greater for other animals (such as deer).

,

, the voltage is less than 30 milli-amps and the duration of the correction is 1/4 of a second. at low voltage. think about basic electricity. even with the use of compactors in the collar the stored electricity is coing out at 30 milli-amps at 12 volts or less. there is no way to increase the voltage merely the amperage. the average static shock from a doorknob ranges between 3000 to 10000 volts.... at even lower amps of course but if you do the math the wattage, which is the amout of work the electricity is doing is the same

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if you want to keep him from getting out you could also drive re-bar in the ground around where he is digging. the re-bar wont stop the digging but it will keep him in 24 inch rebar spaced every 8 inches or so should do..... most likely cheaper than cement

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if you want to keep him from getting out you could also drive re-bar in the ground around where he is digging. the re-bar wont stop the digging but it will keep him in 24 inch rebar spaced every 8 inches or so should do..... most likely cheaper than cement

That is actually a very clever idea. Thanks Dustin

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