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Invisible fence with huskies.


Franklin Phil

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did the teen have fur??? yes the shock is more powerful on direct skin but dogs have fur. these are the ratings for voltage on an electric fence

First of all, a controller must produce enough voltage (electrical

pressure) to overcome the resistance of the hair and hide of the animal. This is termed the guard voltage and is given by the type of livestock; minimum values are:

• 700 volts for short-haired animals (such as cows)

• 2000 volts for long-haired animals (such as sheep)

• 2500 volts or greater for other animals (such as deer).

,

, the voltage is less than 30 milli-amps and the duration of the correction is 1/4 of a second. at low voltage. think about basic electricity. even with the use of compactors in the collar the stored electricity is coing out at 30 milli-amps at 12 volts or less. there is no way to increase the voltage merely the amperage. the average static shock from a doorknob ranges between 3000 to 10000 volts.... at even lower amps of course but if you do the math the wattage, which is the amout of work the electricity is doing is the same

Just to clarify. I believe the above represents information regarding an agricultural, above ground live wire fence. It does not represent the buried fence line and radio collar commonly used for pet containment.

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I actually just filled the and used a heavy chicken wire bent to go about 12" out into the dog area underground. That way should he try to dig his claws will snag the wire which, I'm hoping will feel uncomfortable and perhaps he won't be inclined to dig there. We'll see.

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Dogs may dig to entertain themselves when they learn that roots and soil "play back." Your dog may be digging for entertainment if:



  • He's left alone in the yard for long periods of time without opportunities for interaction with his human family.

  • His environment is relatively barrenâ€â€with no playmates or toys.

  • He's a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years old) and doesn't have other outlets for his energy.

  • He's a terrier or other breed that was bred to dig.

  • He's a particularly active type who needs a job to be happy (such as a herding or sporting breed).

  • He's recently seen you "playing" in the dirt (gardening or working in the yard).

Recommendations

Expand your dog's world and increase his people time in the following ways:



  • Walk your dog at least twice daily. Insufficient exercise is a leading cause of problem behaviors.

  • Redirect your dog's energy by teaching him to fetch a ball or flying disk and playing with him as often as possible. (A tired dog is a good dog.)

  • Teach your dog a few commands or tricks. Practice these every day for 5 to 10 minutes.

  • Take a training class with your dog and practice daily what you've learned.

  • Keep interesting toys in the yard to keep your dog busy when you're not around. Kong®-type toys filled with treats or busy-box dog toys work especially well. Rotate the toys to keep things interesting.

For dedicated diggers, provide an acceptable area for their excavation activity:



  • Choose an area of the yard where it's okay for your dog to dig, and cover the area with loose soil or sand. Or use a child-size sandbox.

  • If you catch your dog digging in an unacceptable area, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise and say, "No dig." Then immediately take him to the designated digging area. When he digs in the approved spot, reward him with praise.

  • Make the unacceptable digging spots unattractive (at least temporarily) by placing rocks or chicken wire into the dirt.

  • Make the acceptable area attractive by burying safe items (such as toys) for him to discover.

Seeking prey

Dogs often dig in an effort to catch burrowing animals or insects that live in your yard. This may be the case if:



  • The digging is in a specific area instead of at the boundaries of the yard.

  • The digging is at the roots of trees or shrubs.

  • The digging is in a "path" layout.

Recommendations

Solve the prey problem by:



  • Searching for signs of burrowing animals, then use safe, humane methods to make your yard unattractive to them.

  • Don't resort to methods that could be toxic or dangerous to your pets or other animals.

Seeking comfort or protection

In hot weather, dogs may dig holes to lie in the cool dirt. They may also dig to provide themselves with shelter from cold, wind, or rain or to find water. Your dog may be digging for comfort or protection if:



  • The holes are near foundations of buildings, large shade trees, or a water source.

  • Your dog doesn't have a shelter or his shelter is exposed to the hot sun or cold winds.

  • Your dog is lying in the holes he digs.

Recommendations

Provide your dog with the comfort or protection he seeks:



  • Follow our tips for providing your dog with a comfortable doghouse that affords protection from wind and sun.

  • Your dog may still prefer a hole in the ground, in which case you can try providing an "approved digging area" as described above. Make sure the allowed digging area is in a spot that's protected from the elements.

  • Provide plenty of fresh water in a bowl that can't be tipped over.

Seeking attention

Any behavior can become attention-getting behavior if the dog learns that he receives attention for engaging in it. Remember, even punishment is attention. Your dog may be looking for attention if:



  • He digs in your presence.

  • He has limited opportunities for interaction with you.

Recommendations

Provide your dog with the attention he deserves.



  • Ignore the attention-seeking behavior and give your pooch lots of praise for "good dog" behavior.

  • Make sure your dog has sufficient time with you on a daily basis. Walks, games of fetch, and basic training are all good ways to interact with your dog.

Seeking escape

Dogs may try to escape to get to something, to get somewhere, or to get away from something. Your dog may be digging to escape if:



  • He digs along the fence line.

  • He digs under the fence.

Recommendations

Figure out why your dog is trying to escape, and remove those incentives. Make sure his environment is a safe, appealing place for a dog.

To keep your dog in your yard:



  • Bury chicken wire at the base of the fence. Be sure to roll the sharp edges away from your yard.

  • Place large rocks, partially buried, along the bottom of the fence line.

  • Bury the bottom of the fence 1 to 2 feet below the surface.

  • Lay chain link fencing on the ground (anchored to the bottom of the fence) to make it uncomfortable for your dog to walk near the fence.

  • Work on modifying his behavior to stop his escape efforts.

What doesn't work

Regardless of the reason your dog is digging, don't:



  • Punish your dog after the fact. This won't address the cause of the behavior, and it will worsen any digging that's motivated by fear or anxiety.

  • Stake out your dog near a hole he's dug or fill the hole with water. These techniques address neither the cause of the behavior nor the act of digging.

Next steps

If you've tried the recommended strategies and you still can't solve your dog's digging problem, keep him indoors with you and supervise him during bathroom breaks in the yard. You may also want to consult a behavior professional for additional help.

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I actually just filled the and used a heavy chicken wire bent to go about 12" out into the dog area underground. That way should he try to dig his claws will snag the wire which, I'm hoping will feel uncomfortable and perhaps he won't be inclined to dig there. We'll see.

Sounds like a plan and not too awfully expensive at that.

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Well, I know this isn't what you're looking for, but is it a given that they must be outside unsupervised? I put fencing around my back yard, but I know it's not tall enough (it's only 4 ft) and it's not buried to prevent digging. So, if I leave Sabaka out there unsupervised for any length of time, there's a good chance he could get out. But, with me watching, it's enough to allow him to run and play off lead and still keep him in the yard. We only take him out there for exercise or play, and the rest of the time he's indoors. So, I don't have to worry about him getting away when I'm not looking.

I don't know if your dogs are indoor or outdoor dogs, but before you spend hundreds of dollars and many hours, is it possible that some changes to your schedule and/or the way you handle their outdoor time could help? If they live outside all the time, I realize that this isn't a very practical suggestion, but I just thought I'd pitch in my two cents' worth.

If you still need to go the way of strengthening your fence, what about the possibility of driving metal stakes in the ground every 6-8 inches along the fence line? Of course, that won't be cheap either, but I'll be it would be cheaper and easier than a concrete footer. I hope you come up with a plan that gives you peace of mind.

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@rwprice103 I'm actually home with them nearly 24/7. I am an early retiree. They are primarily indoor dogs. I have a new problem child rescue dog. I have had him home for about 9 days. My back yard is a fortress of security. It's possible that this was me panicking a little. I've corrected the issue (it seems anyway).

I just adore my dogs and don't want to lose them. I respect my neighbors and their pets and don't want to be responsible for a tragedy. My two husky boys are very prey driven.

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the only thing i would worry about with chicken wire would be them ripping out claws since it would be quite easy for them to get caught and he is no going to know that its there until he is digging at full speed. hopefully it will work though good luck

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My dogs are tied up when i'm not there to watch them,they do dig holes, but they are tied far enough away from the fence that their holes don't don't allow them to escape and i let them loose in the fenced yard when i am home. When they are tied up they each have a house, and big water bucket, and 12footx12foot area.

100_0786.jpg

and my other 2 are in a run with burried chainlink floor. you could try that all the way around the edge of the yard.

100_0785.jpg

.Are your dogs House dogs?? How often are they in the yard? are you there to watch them while they are outside? You could keep them inside/crated when your not home, and let them in the yard only when you can watch them and scold them from digging.

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@Franklin Phil, I'm glad to hear that you've corrected the issue. Since you've had other dogs, I'm sure you know that your new one will improve over time. He just needs to figure out how things work at your house and in your pack. Hang in there, it'll be great!

Thanks. I think you're right. I'm sure I was just panicing. Things have mellowed out quite nicely since.

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My dogs are tied up when i'm not there to watch them,

Thank you. First, I'm pretty much home with my dogs 24/7 but I was kind of over reacting to be honest. I fixed the fence and the problem. Personally I didn't like the idea of the collar at all. But in the moment felt desperate. My dogs are well crate trained indoor dogs. situation seems resolved.

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  • 2 months later...

You people are crazy. I have a two year old husky named Samson as shown in my picture and he has been on various electric fences in his lifetime. I have personally set up 3 my self now all at very different locations and Samson learns them almost immediately. He knows the beeping and vibrating means he is about to get it. And really get it I have gotten the Pet safe Stubborn Dog in ground system, so it has the long prongs to get threw all his fur. I know someone you probably think this is extremely cruel but I can assure you it really is not at all and Samson absolutely loves his yards. This past fence I set up on my new home he learned within ten mins and never once has gotten shocked. I simply put flags up where his boundary is and walk him the around his new boundary a few times with the collar on. He instantly knows as soon as he hears the beeping from the collar that this is it. And then I can take him off the leash and he will slowly figure out the rest of the yard feeling out his new boundaries. He loves it and never got shocked at that location. Unfortunately I had to move from that nice yard and now I am temporally at a place where I cannot set up an electric fence. So Samson has been back to being tied up due to my fear of him running so close to major roads. I recently just got a new training device that I was hoping someone has tried before. It is a Petsafe Big Dog Remote Collar with a 1000 yard range, its made by the same company as Samsons other electric collar so it also has the option to make the beeping sound. Im hoping to start training Samson to be off lead and just on this remote collar (only in remote locations that I feel extremely comfortable). It is going to be a process and I know it wont happen over night but he responds so good with the other collar so Im hoping the beeping will be enough to remind of him of what is to come. Please let me know if anyone else out there has or is thinking about doing anything like this with their husky. Samson is 2 year old and not neutered and does not run from electric fence for anything including cars, people and other dogs do not temp him to break the fence.

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@Franklin Phil

Try getting a hold of Phil W, I know he's a member here, but I don't know how frequently he is on. You could try facebook as I know he's on there quite a bit. Last I knew, he and his wife, Vanessa, had 23 huskies (rescues) on their place. They use invisible fencing.

Thanks Becky but it turns out I have my dog contained and under control. Didnt turn out to need it after all.

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I posted this same question about 7 months ago and almost got crucified.

7 Months later and I have 100% success, I have two very happy and healthy dogs running free on a 1 acre property.

I'm an Electrical Engineer and I believe the problem is that most people do not understand the technology, neither that the correction is totally harmless. I have about $30,000 worth of landscaping protected as well and my Husky is free to dig holes which he loves doing, as the landscaping areas are out of bounds.

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I posted this same question about 7 months ago and almost got crucified.

7 Months later and I have 100% success, I have two very happy and healthy dogs running free on a 1 acre property.

I'm an Electrical Engineer and I believe the problem is that most people do not understand the technology, neither that the correction is totally harmless. I have about $30,000 worth of landscaping protected as well and my Husky is free to dig holes which he loves doing, as the landscaping areas are out of bounds.

I think what people are fearful of is their Siberians running off through the electric fence due to some squirrel or bird and never to be seen from again. While e-fences may be suitable for some breeds, with the Siberian Huskies known issue being off leash and running away... most feel that such a temptation is too great and the risk is far too great. If you disagree... well, it's your dog. But blatantly telling people that e-fences are a suitable option for those who don't want a fence is irresponsible with this breed. That's all i'm going to say about it.

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I think what people are fearful of is their Siberians running off through the electric fence due to some squirrel or bird and never to be seen from again. While e-fences may be suitable for some breeds, with the Siberian Huskies known issue being off leash and running away... most feel that such a temptation is too great and the risk is far too great. If you disagree... well, it's your dog. But blatantly telling people that e-fences are a suitable option for those who don't want a fence is irresponsible with this breed. That's all i'm going to say about it.

Shoot, here we go again......................................

Each dog is different. With enough temptation a dog will skip an invisible fence, will clear a 6' physical fence and will pull the leash right out of your hand. Ask me how I know all these things? I had a dog who literally chewed my back door off and escaped.

I did a lot of research before putting in the invisible fence for my Husky, as I already tested this for three years with a Lab Retriever, which was more difficult than a Husky by the way, but just as successful in the end.

This is what I have learned with my Husky: He is more athletic and more predator sensitive than anything I owned before. But he is also a very sensitive dog and extremely susceptable to correction, which makes the fence successful.

Nothing is a guarantee, but for me this was a suitable solution. I would gladly demonstrate personally walking with my dog collar around my neck through the boundary several times and take it off with no physical evidence of the stimulation remaining. What I would not gladly do is be confined behind a physical fence, or some other enclosure, preventing me from experiencing living the rest of my life.

Finaly, I should probably not have replied to this thread, probably some Husky blood in my veins caused me write this. I guess Huskys are also irresponsible as you intimate I am. That is why I like them.

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Shoot, here we go again......................................

I'm not going to get involved, but I was not starting an argument. Simply responding to your statement about how you were "crucified." For the majority of Siberian Husky owners the combination of the lack of off-leash skills coupled with their high predatory drive... the risk is too great. That's all I said. If you want to take those chances and it's working for you- great. Really, great.

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I'm not going to get involved, but I was not starting an argument. Simply responding to your statement about how you were "crucified." For the majority of Siberian Husky owners the combination of the lack of off-leash skills coupled with their high predatory drive... the risk is too great. That's all I said. If you want to take those chances and it's working for you- great. Really, great.

Huskys are trainable. I will not let mine off leash in public, as with any other dog, but once out in the woods Een knows to maintain eye contact and he knows the difference between being serious and when it's play. When it is serious, he will lie down and wait for me. When it is play, he will run in circles and bark at me. Those are the rewards of training, repetition, repetition and spending a whole lot of quality time with your dog. With respect, those who lose control of their Huskys and have dogs running away when they accidently get off leash, do not understand how to be the "Alpha" individual in the relationship.

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Rather than chicken wire, I would try what is called hog wire. Hog wire is welded and the thickness is greater than chicken wire. Chicken wire could cut or tear their pads, where the hog wire would not.

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