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Would you consider me ready?


Shaiasaur

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Here is my list of what I will get and do when I get a new puppy and my scheduling...

Toys

Shampoo for dogs

Good food (undecided yet)

Grooming kit

Harness

Leash that can extent and pull back in

Nail clipers

Big crate with divider

Stuff for cleaning accidents but not the toxic kind

Identification

Collar

Appointment for shots and appointment for vet

Food and water bowl

Treats

Pooper scooper and bags

When I first get the puppy, I plan to take it outside where it will do its business, then I will take the puppy in and show it around, introduce it to the family, and slowly with the cat.

Then I will do introductions to the crate slowly, and probably for the first night I will sleep by the crate.

I will get up every two hours to take it out at night.

The last time I will feed it is 2 hours before bed and take it out to the bathroom before.

Do I sound prepared? I mean, I've done soo much thinking.

It's going to be a while until I get the pup though.

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Regarding your extendable lead idea - I would think carefully about getting one of these. Huskies are known pullers so you'll want to tackle that right from the start. Using a flexi lead increased the chance that the dog will pull as they never get a chance to learn where the end of the lead is. I would suggest buying a regular 4ft-ish lead and then getting a longer lead or two from ebay, for example I have a 30ft lead, a 50ft lead and a 100ft lead, all for different situations. Unless you don't mind the pulling :P But don't listen to the whole "they're bred to pull, it's not lack of training!" thing, that's rubbish! Any dog can be trained to walk without pulling, huskies included. It's just tougher! So if that's something you want to avoid then take precautions from the start and don't buy a flexi.

I'd also say don't plan to get up in the night every 2 hours otherwise you could set up a pattern that's hard to break. They can hold themselves longer than you'd think - Kiska was sleeping 8 hours through the night without an accident from 9 weeks old. When you do get up, it's out to potty and straight back to bed, then ignore any crying to get out again. You don't want it learning it can get what it wants by being loud ;)

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Regarding your extendable lead idea - I would think carefully about getting one of these. Huskies are known pullers so you'll want to tackle that right from the start. Using a flexi lead increased the chance that the dog will pull as they never get a chance to learn where the end of the lead is. I would suggest buying a regular 4ft-ish lead and then getting a longer lead or two from ebay, for example I have a 30ft lead, a 50ft lead and a 100ft lead, all for different situations. Unless you don't mind the pulling :P But don't listen to the whole "they're bred to pull, it's not lack of training!" thing, that's rubbish! Any dog can be trained to walk without pulling, huskies included. It's just tougher! So if that's something you want to avoid then take precautions from the start and don't buy a flexi.

I'd also say don't plan to get up in the night every 2 hours otherwise you could set up a pattern that's hard to break. They can hold themselves longer than you'd think - Kiska was sleeping 8 hours through the night without an accident from 9 weeks old. When you do get up, it's out to potty and straight back to bed, then ignore any crying to get out again. You don't want it learning it can get what it wants by being loud ;)

I wish I'd known that when Molly was little (flexi lead), it was the first lead I bought for her and definitely not a good decision for us; I bought her a new one after splicing my hand up when she unexpectedly pulled and I had no time to press the 'halt' button. :(

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Regarding your extendable lead idea - I would think carefully about getting one of these. Huskies are known pullers so you'll want to tackle that right from the start. Using a flexi lead increased the chance that the dog will pull as they never get a chance to learn where the end of the lead is. I would suggest buying a regular 4ft-ish lead and then getting a longer lead or two from ebay, for example I have a 30ft lead, a 50ft lead and a 100ft lead, all for different situations. Unless you don't mind the pulling :P But don't listen to the whole "they're bred to pull, it's not lack of training!" thing, that's rubbish! Any dog can be trained to walk without pulling, huskies included. It's just tougher! So if that's something you want to avoid then take precautions from the start and don't buy a flexi.

I'd also say don't plan to get up in the night every 2 hours otherwise you could set up a pattern that's hard to break. They can hold themselves longer than you'd think - Kiska was sleeping 8 hours through the night without an accident from 9 weeks old. When you do get up, it's out to potty and straight back to bed, then ignore any crying to get out again. You don't want it learning it can get what it wants by being loud ;)

Thank you for the information and I'll definitely take this information to good use!

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Sorry hun, I know you think that you have done a lot of preparation, but at 16, unless you for sure know what you are going to be doing when you get the puppy, where you are living, and if anyone is helping you, how much money you will have to spend on it (if you even have enough to adopt/purchase), I don't think trying to be ready now is good use of your time. Maybe instead of spending too much time trying to get ready and reading the forum you should dedicate your time to doing well in school, so you can do something successful when you graduate (like go to college), and then have the life that will allow you to have a Husky. They are a special breed, and if anything, they do not like being alone...

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Luka is 7 weeks and he sleeps a full 8 hours a night without having to go potty. Just know as soon as he wakes up he needs to go right then! lol

That is very unusual. Most pups can go about one hour per month in age before having to release their bladder. When Zoya was a pup, I was up every two hours through the night for about four months before she was able to sleep all night.

That reminds me, get an alarm clock to wake yourself up every few hours through the night to take your pup outside. Makes potty training so much easier.

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Sorry hun, I know you think that you have done a lot of preparation, but at 16, unless you for sure know what you are going to be doing when you get the puppy, where you are living, and if anyone is helping you, how much money you will have to spend on it (if you even have enough to adopt/purchase), I don't think trying to be ready now is good use of your time. Maybe instead of spending too much time trying to get ready and reading the forum you should dedicate your time to doing well in school, so you can do something successful when you graduate (like go to college), and then have the life that will allow you to have a Husky. They are a special breed, and if anything, they do not like being alone...

I'm very multi tasked. I'm a 3.8 grade point average student on two honor rolls and I even have a good paying job and I get social security. Thank you for your honesty I understand what you're meaning.

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That is very unusual. Most pups can go about one hour per month in age before having to release their bladder. When Zoya was a pup, I was up every two hours through the night for about four months before she was able to sleep all night.

That reminds me, get an alarm clock to wake yourself up every few hours through the night to take your pup outside. Makes potty training so much easier.

Haha yes and I have plenty of them haha

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With leads... maybe try and track down a ROK lead.. I swear by mine.. they're bungee so they take the strain off you when training to lead walk.. my two are just fine and walk almost perfectly on them now and I don't look like a stretch armstrong toy anymore... lol... oh and they are super hard wearing and chew proof ;-)

Good luck!!! x

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I would consider adding the following to your list (or doing the appropriate research to have the information on hand):

- a 6 foot leather lead with brass snap - sturdy and reliable. (I don't like the flexi leads at all - but that's just MY personal opinion)

- a 30 to 100 foot lead so you can provide the husky with "off lead" experience

- first aid kit

VET - Know his/her hours of operation. Will they come in on an emergency or will you need a second emergency vet? What are their payment plans (if any) or will you need to pay up front for vet care? What experience do they have with Siberians? Many don't understand the proper care of the Siberian (IE metabolism and how this relates to anesthesia and/or prescriptions

Back-up plan - Where will you board the husky? W

And you'll need a DSL and plenty of batteries so you don't miss a moment!

What if you need to board the husky? Do you have a place lined up? You'll need someplace for him/her to go while you're on vacation or ill or have a family emergency....

Not in anyway trying to burst your bubble, just want you to look closely at what you can expect.

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I would consider adding the following to your list (or doing the appropriate research to have the information on hand):

- a 6 foot leather lead with brass snap - sturdy and reliable. (I don't like the flexi leads at all - but that's just MY personal opinion)

- a 30 to 100 foot lead so you can provide the husky with "off lead" experience

- first aid kit

VET - Know his/her hours of operation. Will they come in on an emergency or will you need a second emergency vet? What are their payment plans (if any) or will you need to pay up front for vet care? What experience do they have with Siberians? Many don't understand the proper care of the Siberian (IE metabolism and how this relates to anesthesia and/or prescriptions

Back-up plan - Where will you board the husky? W

And you'll need a DSL and plenty of batteries so you don't miss a moment!

What if you need to board the husky? Do you have a place lined up? You'll need someplace for him/her to go while you're on vacation or ill or have a family emergency....

Not in anyway trying to burst your bubble, just want you to look closely at what you can expect.

Thank you for bringing up these points.

I am very familiar with my local vet (I shadowed them for a couple of Weeks.)

I won't be getting the husky until a year or two.

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  • 2 weeks later...

what are you planning on feeding your pups???? just bear in mind some of the higher protein expensive pup foods certain huskies wont take too

re the lead thing i agree flexi lead big no no, invest in a decent 1.5-2metre lead so when your walking by the road etc your husky you can keep next to you, but then when there in the park etc they have a a bit free reign. With our husky we have her on a half check collar and a lunge line which is 30foot, we dont pop her on the lunge line till she hits the woods though.

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what are you planning on feeding your pups???? just bear in mind some of the higher protein expensive pup foods certain huskies wont take too

re the lead thing i agree flexi lead big no no, invest in a decent 1.5-2metre lead so when your walking by the road etc your husky you can keep next to you, but then when there in the park etc they have a a bit free reign. With our husky we have her on a half check collar and a lunge line which is 30foot, we dont pop her on the lunge line till she hits the woods though.

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I might do the Blue Buffalo food, that seems good.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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I have bungee pupee leashes for my huskies, and they work amazing!! They are made up of bungee chords, and they work wonders. My Timber is such a puller, and when he pulls this leash pulls him back instead of my arm out! I can actually walk him now. If you go to amazon, and search for bungee pupee, they will pop up!

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i spoke to a friend in the know and he said stay clear of the high protein stuff unless they are gunna get worked and till there alot older it can damage there kidneys

what do you consider high protein to be? eg on a bag of food it will say something like 24% protein etc

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