He's at it again, aggressive NOT possessive.....Help Please

[Lazacka]

Thanks, yes they are too good looking for their own good lol.

I don't have any kids, as im just 23 myself so i cannot offer any advice with that. Maybe you could exclude them or not allow them to take Nigel out? Until they can follow your instructions.

The more I look at Panda the more I see Nigel! What color eyes does Panda have?

I thought of excluding them from that, but I think they should just listen to what they're being told and do it. I'm not asking them to train him, just asking them to follow the commands we've been taught and I do know they're kids but they really wanted this puppy so I believe they need to be involved. I wish my kids were like you and had to train me lol

[Removed #1]

No, not specifically. I try to get them involved in his feedings at least 2 or 3 times a week so Nigel is used to depending on everyone in the house for his meals, I do make the boys switch off on his nightly walks whereas my daughter and I do his long walks in the day depending on her schedule (she's out of school now but has just started a job that she works until late at night/early morning, so she's sleeping later, he just her this morning and it's been a few days and he's howling and crying at her like he hasn't seen her in years). One of them helps with his grooming, but again, nothing specifically.

Is there something you suggest that would be good for them?

They all partake in his cleaning, grooming and playing

I don't know how old your kids are...mine are on the preteen to infant age range.

We tried the everyone just contribute approach and with kids I've found there's this assumption that 'someone else will do' it. Whatever it is...is obviously your fault (*sarcasam*) for not being as good with telepathy as you ought to be ya know.

I'd give them each specific assignments and be a tyrant about it until they do whatever it is the way you want it done. Your job is to go for walks. Your job is to teach him to STAY (or drop it...or leave it). Your job is brushing him EVERYDAY....

I'd actually task the biggest foot dragger with teaching commands...and I'd give a timeline for each one...you'll be surpised at how on board kids will get with doing it the right way when one of their siblings is undoing all of THEIR hard work by short-cutting things

[sjwrx]

The more I look at Panda the more I see Nigel! What color eyes does Panda have?

I thought of excluding them from that, but I think they should just listen to what they're being told and do it. I'm not asking them to train him, just asking them to follow the commands we've been taught and I do know they're kids but they really wanted this puppy so I believe they need to be involved. I wish my kids were like you and had to train me lol

Panda has blue eyes.

Unfortunately we've all been through that teenage stage where we do the opposite of what we're told to do haha.

Similar situation with my dad, he REALLY wanted the puppy but he rarely put time into training/walking etc, all he did in the beginning was run and stomp on the ground which gets his attention and makes him go berzerk. One night i was just frustrated and tired as i had to wake up every 2 hours to take Panda out to relieve himself. I just told them that id return him to the breeder, now no matter what they do, they ask me first. Panda earns every bit of what he gets.

i also read that your crate is in the basement? would it be possible to crate him on the main floor? id guess it's a bit scary for him to be alone downstairs at first. I crate Panda in the living room with that room blocked off with a baby gate.

[simhauu]

I know some are saying I should be the only one training him, but what happens when the lazy kid lets him out the door before him and I'm not here? What if he darts out the door and gets hit by a car? The trainer and the vet both said that the entire family has to be involved in his consistent training. I'm so confused lol. I'm not asking the kids to read books and train the dog while I eat bon bons, the kids aren't babies (14 & 19) I'm simply asking them to do what the trainer says to do when Nigel is exhibiting bad behavior and to stick to the simple commands that we give him and he gets nothing for free!

Hi, with all others' great advices, I don't think it matters if your dog goes before or after you, once he respects and knows that you are the one giving the calls you don't have to be worried about that. It'll just be that you allowed him to go first, or that's what I think.

If you are worried of him darting out the door, have him on leash.

He's 5 months now, your command teaching skills will be tested in the months coming, with how well he responds, and even then push you around imo.

And lastly, I myself am 21 but, I suggest that you explain to your children that you want them to do as you say, not vet or trainer but you.

I'd change the trainer if I were you, a puppy can't be aggressive unless someone did something to the dog. E-collar could only make the furball fear you, please don't use it, if he's misbehaving outside, try halti headcollar, a 2 year old can lead dog after that too. German shephard is very different from husky and so on...

Your furball Nigel loves you, he's just little confused now.

[Kirbysowner]

I'm going to be honest and admit I didn't read all the replies or the entire post (sorry too long for me), so if my advice has already been mention my apologies.

Huskies are likely to develop food aggression or possessiveness towards food. one way to help it is hand feeding. I always use it when dealing with new dogs and so far has worked on every dog I have helped rehabilitate (specially pitts). Also, make sure you imposed the hierarchy of the household, and make sure the pup understands who is on top. whenever my dog does something I'm not okay with, I grab the skin of his neck and tell him no, and keep him looking at me until he understands his behavior was not okay. you would be surprise how many problems can be solved by just grabbing their scruff and telling them no. Also, dont grab him hard, because your not trying to hurt him, you are just reprimanding him.

keep working with him and have patience, because pups are time consuming!!!

[jessiezara90]

I'm no expert but I read in your post that you put him in the crate after he growled at your husband. I hope that's right, but if you want to crate train him, putting him in the crate as a punishment might not help as you want him to like being in his crate? And see it as a safe place for him.

I hope it all works out for you and your pup!

[mydiamond]

Oh wow, by the time I wrote that post to Bec you guys already had more posts! lol I'm trying to get used to this new format here and it keeps logging me out...ugh..

Anyway, I don't know who said "Slap your vet" but that made me laugh! She wasn't our regular vet, she was the one who was there that day, Nigel's reg doc had the day off and he was just going in to finish up his shots and she literally wrote on his paperwork "behavioral problems, shows signs of aggressiveness" huh? I did think, who does that? The vet's assistant did pick him up to calm him down and he got so upset he tried to bite her not once but twice, he also tried to bite the trainer when he tried to show us how to put Nigel in a submissive position. Maybe we are working with the wrong people. Not sure how much experience they've had with Siberians but I do know that the trainer owns 2 German's and our friends Boxer was trained by him and a 2 year old could walk him. They all used the e collar.

I am a little overwhelmed at the moment and maybe I'm asking too much from other people, but I don't want Nigel to grow into an aggressive adult who will "bite one of the kid's friends" like I've been told. Hopefully if I take 100% control, this will stop. I am going to go back to the start and retrace my steps and see where I went wrong.

Thanks again for all the advice and the tough posts, I don't mind them because if I'm doing something wrong, I want to be told it, otherwise I can't fix me. That's what my post was about, what was I doing wrong, not Nigel, he's a puppy, I'm an adult human it's up to me to fix it! Thanks

*raises hand* it was me, I'm the one responsible about the "slap the vet" thing LOL btw a trainer that is used to german shepherds won't be the best trainer for huskies. GSDs are "starter dogs" who are very trainable and much much MUCH less stubborn than our beautiful breed. The best trainer for Nigel is the one who has experience dealing with stubborn breeds--or better yet, if there's any, a husky specialist.

btw if you don't want to be signed out every time you can tick the "remember me" box

[Storm Angel n Auroras Mum]

my kids are 11 and 5 and love being involved in the dogs. My son loves training them, he taught storm how to give the second paw after the first paw. he calls it "paw the other hand" lol

and my little girl? she loves to prepare their dinner and breakfast.

[Lazacka]

I'm going to be honest and admit I didn't read all the replies or the entire post (sorry too long for me), so if my advice has already been mention my apologies.

Huskies are likely to develop food aggression or possessiveness towards food. one way to help it is hand feeding. I always use it when dealing with new dogs and so far has worked on every dog I have helped rehabilitate (specially pitts). Also, make sure you imposed the hierarchy of the household, and make sure the pup understands who is on top. whenever my dog does something I'm not okay with, I grab the skin of his neck and tell him no, and keep him looking at me until he understands his behavior was not okay. you would be surprise how many problems can be solved by just grabbing their scruff and telling them no. Also, dont grab him hard, because your not trying to hurt him, you are just reprimanding him.

keep working with him and have patience, because pups are time consuming!!!

I did the hand feeding thing, that was one of the suggestions regarding his toy possessiveness that someone suggested (again sorry not sure who did that was a while a go and I don't even know where that thread is now lol) that worked awesome, we can now tell him "off" when he's eating a chewy or going at his kong and he will do so. I don't know what turned him on me to make him bite me like that, but the vet and trainer (and the vet's assistant) all put in my head that he was showing aggressive behavior, so I just went with it. This is why I like coming here, not only did I find out I was part of the problem but I get such great advice and it's always comforting to know that other husky owners are either dealing with this or have dealt with it and they understand and of course it doesn't hurt to hear others say I don't have an aggressive dog Thank you so much for your reply and tip!

[Lazacka]

I'm no expert but I read in your post that you put him in the crate after he growled at your husband. I hope that's right, but if you want to crate train him, putting him in the crate as a punishment might not help as you want him to like being in his crate? And see it as a safe place for him.

I hope it all works out for you and your pup!

Yes I did, but just to add to that, I did not say a word to him like "bad dog" or anything like that, I just marched him there and put him in the crate. I do know you're not suppose to use the crate as a punishment, but some do and some don't, this was out of frustration that I did that and whether he picked up on it or not (most likely he did) it won't become a habit that's for sure. It was bedtime anyway when he growled at my husband and my husband acted a bit timid and nice to him, I was the one who insisted he go in the crate. So although I did do it, I have never done it before and it was out of frustration and sheer exhaustion on my part.

Ps, how old is Meko now? She's gorgeous! If she's ever looking for a prom date, I promise Nigel will be a well behaved young man by then Thanks for your reply!

[Lazacka]

*raises hand* it was me, I'm the one responsible about the "slap the vet" thing LOL btw a trainer that is used to german shepherds won't be the best trainer for huskies. GSDs are "starter dogs" who are very trainable and much much MUCH less stubborn than our beautiful breed. The best trainer for Nigel is the one who has experience dealing with stubborn breeds--or better yet, if there's any, a husky specialist.

btw if you don't want to be signed out every time you can tick the "remember me" box

Haha...I did go back and find out who wrote it and saw it was you, that was hilarious, I just may take you up on that if she tells me that again!

Is there a board here that refers trainers who are husky pro's? I'm waiting for the trainer to call us back...it's so hard, Nigel has been nothing but a doll since the incident. He even grunted a little yesterday when my son (the lazy non listening one!) started to pat him when he was chewing on his bone and I told my son to give a non scary "No Nigel" then an "off" and Nigel listened, dropped the bone and then I had my son make him sit and stay to give it back with a massive "GOOD BOY!" then I told my son to knock the crap off and leave the dog alone when he's teething! lol

[Lazacka]

my kids are 11 and 5 and love being involved in the dogs. My son loves training them, he taught storm how to give the second paw after the first paw. he calls it "paw the other hand" lol

and my little girl? she loves to prepare their dinner and breakfast.

awww...sounds so cute! See I don't expect them to train him if they don't want to, but I expect them to listen to us and the trainer as far as the commands we are working on with Nigel. My son (the lazy one who loves the dog) taught our last dog to sit with a cookie on her nose then flip it into her mouth lol. I think he's just not willing to put the work in with the puppy, who knows??

[Austinville]

I know this isn't exactly what you were looking for, but I have a two year old husky. She's spoiled, but not rotten. I have no children in the home, but grandchildren often visit. My OH is 'famous' for feeding from the table and for giving in to the husky's every whim.

With that much chaos in her life, and everyone trying to 'teach' her what to do, it only created more chaos. Now, I understand you can't do everything all the time for the pup, but for myself - I found it much easier to rely on myself to do any training and working with her. She got one message and one message only. Much easier for her to learn what is expected of her.

Then, when I got to a static point, I hired a trainer/behaviourist to help me get a bit further (She did not have any issues, I just wanted to keep her mind busy - a busy husky is a happy husky). The trainer I chose had NO background with huskies, and in fact, insisted that by the second session, Ryn would be running round off lead and listening. I said absolutely not, but liked his style otherwise and we continued. The best thing was that he was willing to learn about the breed and/or habits and personality from me as I learned to lead from him. We both learned a lot in those eight one-on-one sessions.

Bottom line - I couldn't have found a better trainer for Ryn and myself. I went with my gut and it was the best decision. Ryn can now sit (what others call sit/stay -- I don't give the command stay for this reason. I told her to sit. And sit means sit until I release her) Recalls (not the best, but we continue to work on it) and most importantly, she looks to me for direction in any situation. That's not to say she doesn't want to chase a squirrel or cat while we're walking!) And she walks at hip (what others call 'heel') when directed to. There's more, but I won't bore you.

Best of luck. Don't give up, but then again, don't make it harder than it has to be. You know the kids aren't helping, but be sure they aren't hindering your progress. If they are. Eliminate their 'help' it's only confusing the pup more.

[jessiezara90]

Yes I did, but just to add to that, I did not say a word to him like "bad dog" or anything like that, I just marched him there and put him in the crate. I do know you're not suppose to use the crate as a punishment, but some do and some don't, this was out of frustration that I did that and whether he picked up on it or not (most likely he did) it won't become a habit that's for sure. It was bedtime anyway when he growled at my husband and my husband acted a bit timid and nice to him, I was the one who insisted he go in the crate. So although I did do it, I have never done it before and it was out of frustration and sheer exhaustion on my part.

Ps, how old is Meko now? She's gorgeous! If she's ever looking for a prom date, I promise Nigel will be a well behaved young man by then Thanks for your reply!

:) well unfortunately Meeko is a boy so I'm not sure him and Nigel will see each other in that way ( well you never know:) He is just over nine weeks now and growing so quick!! And where are your pics of nigel??

[Lazacka]

:) well unfortunately Meeko is a boy so I'm not sure him and Nigel will see each other in that way ( well you never know:) He is just over nine weeks now and growing so quick!! And where are your pics of nigel??

Oh I'm sorry lol....he's such a pretty boy! I had pics up but now with the new format I haven't figured it out yet, I'll put them up as soon as I do, still working my way around the new site. I was new to the old site, does that make sense? lol Well maybe they can go on double dates together or something oh and my facebook is annoying with all the pics of Nigel haha....people will post "I saw Nigel today at the river!" instead of saying they saw me

[huskylover103]

Aggression???? Pshhh. This dog is %100 Alpha male and it will take an even stronger alpha to "put him in his place" This must be you. When the "pack is finally established as you being the "pack leader" the bond will be deep between you and your dog. Try learning a bit about canine behavior... I took a class on it and it really helped to see why dogs so some of the things they do!

Another hint. Watch wolves in their pack on Discovery channel or online. Watch the "corrections" the alpha gives to his lower ranking members. You will see what is ingrained in him. Dogs like this have a wonderful tendency to become the best dogs ever... with the right leader!!!!

His aggresive behavior is definately aggressive, but I don't think he is an "aggressive" dog as society sees aggressive dogs. The big difference here is ....being dominantly aggressive, or aggressive for no reason. Everyone has given great advice. I hope you stick with it, research, and in the end you'll have a really great bond with a really special dog.

[Jeramyeggs]

Just to chime in with the last poster, watch "living with wolves ". If you search hard enough, you can find the whole documentary on YouTube. Good stuff.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

[Prince]

5 month sibe pup - between agression and posession.

By the way you have described, it looks like you are bringing the pup from a play mode to an agressive mode by doubting that the pup MAY be agresssive.

When ever I deal with a parent of a Husky specially, I tell them that think of them for a fact that they are agressive. Don't doub't it. (Yes, this is opposite of thinking that he is NOT agressive).

The reason I do this with Husky parents and sometimes depending on the relation between the handler and the pet, this even applies to pits, massts, GSDs and all breeds with jaw power.

Why I say this is because I can not afford to have a dog with me who has a tendency to WARN.

A lot may say that if you stop them from warning, they will find other ways.. yes... that is where you come in to bring that other way. (will explain that later on on how to get the Husky to realize that he can NOT warn even if someone takes away his belowed chew/tow - HE HAS TO ACCEPT IT BEING TAKEN AWAY AT ANY TIME).

Realizing that your pup has shown power (not agression), you need to match him in power. I am not going to talk pack language here because even if your family does not contribute - they will follow you if you do it this way because it will be fun for them as well.

As the pup is still 5 months... get yourself some hardware gloves that cover your hand good for some rough play. This glove will be used ONLY to play with the pup. I know it may sound dumb but when you do it for some time, you realize that it was actually fun.

Your focus here is to put obidience training in the dogs head by making the dog do what he would naturally do - rough play till he learns. Believe it or not - if you see adult Husky/Wolf in nature... they will switch between obidience and play without human even noticing.... mostly.

So here it goes...

Step One: Understand that right now - the dog annoys the family. This has to be reverse. Keeping in mind that the dog does not draw blood... you don't have to make the pup yelp in your play. well if the pup turns twists himself and yelps - that doesn't count as long as your intention was not to fold him like a towel - He will know and depending on your intention, will continue or not the play.

Step Two: Realize that you brought a Husky in your life... First few weeks will be PAINFUL specially if there is only one pup. - Get two Huskies of the same age - different gender. This will be also hard AGAIN in introducing the two for ANOTHER few weeks but your scale of stability will be achieved faster with another pup. WHY? Because the pup will burn out the energy the Husky way. If want to keep one dog... then keep reading...

Step Three: Accept that you have to push the husky to the limits and the pup needs to know that you rule those limits as well.

Huskies are not like GSDs or other dogs - Huskies have a different way of learning - through play and very rough play...

This is what I would do - If the pup is digging somewhere... I would put those gloves on and stand right by the pup when digging. Keep in mind that you have to act as an adult husky/wolf here...

You see the pup digging, you pass your hand by the head hair (let him feel he is being sniffed) and move your hand away - look away and distracted from the pup. This will be when you may hear the growl. If you hear a growl... Stand strong and growl back - but longer and lighter... make it sound like a sound warning.

This will have two reactions... you will see either it is agression warn (will clear your doubt) or a play warn.

Keep in mind - No human talk of puppy no puppy yes and so on...

If you see it was an agression warn... which I am sure you can tell as how confidently you were able to pick the pup up on reacting to the warning he gave you. This is the reaction you need to be ready for...

If the pup tried to even move the jaw close to you... HOLD THE KNECK/HEAD area TIGHT - Don't pick the pup though... Just like the adult husky would hold the pups head to the ground - Be strong and let him GENTLY fight but dont put pressure - Let him know that you can pick him up when ever you want and can control where his jaw goes... Keep in mind, you are neither hurting the pup nor are doing a correction to more than holding the head in the direction you want. If the pup starts to be AGRESSIVE in response and not play (he will be agressive if you hold too tight as well), lift him up so that the situation is not escalated and you can do the practice again.

This will be your changing part: If you can rightaway change your hold to a very light release in a direction (rither left or right) letting them know that - here, I set you free. Imagine an adult husky leaving the pup after behaving, would gently be on a side and a tounge lick followed.

This is what you need to get the pups mind into... use the glove and right away throw the pup gently in any direction from the belly area - like poke lightly... FINE. not poke but you know what I mean... Tell him that you want to play... Keep annoying him and let him go back to digging within 15 seconds... annoy again... let him go back.. annoy again...

HOLD THE PUP BY THE TAIL LIGHTLY AS TO NOT LITERALLY PULL THE WEIGHT of the pup.. just so that if the pup goes towards the hole, the pup will feel the tail get stuck.. Now dont pull and be at one spot... Do it with a LOT of extension in your hand... The adult pup would hold the tail, let the pup lightly go ahead as to not hurt, grab a closer area to feel the pup that he is getting grabbed even closer... and so on... This is another way of telling th epup that you are not allowed to be there in a wild way. If still continues, then bring yourself between the digg and the pup and dont let him get clsoe to the area till th epup gets tired and finds something else... Leave the area, wait for him to try to come again and then wala... you react again and tell him to stay away...

Your focus here is to burn as much evergy in ecersice as you can without even letting the pup know that there is a phase in emotions called agression. It is all Husky play - and it is rough play.

Concept... Tell them that you can PLAY HARD and heep them away from things you want... In a week or so, all you have to do is look at them and they will stay away from the thing and come to you...

This is like treat training (or positive enforcement something) - the husky way.

Now with the gloves part - you should remove one glove at any time to test that the pup can detect bare hand and gloved hand...

Gloved hand = play

No gloved hand = sniff and back in the air - till the pup ignores bare skin and goes to glove play.

Glove introduction is to help people get the pup not to play with ANY bare skin. Some may disagree but if you have a Husky, I only want them to be able to sniff or lick bare skin. Their play is not always play for human infant - that is why all responsible Husky owners will say never leave your kids unattended with the dogs - no matter how loyal you think they are.

Incase you are getting ino the ODD agressive Husky and everyone in the forum is wrong, you take the same concept but in a different tone. Agression means yelp...

You hold the pup down till the pup yelps... Enough that some may say that this is BAD parenting... I don't want my pup to know that agression is acceptable due to which his life may end.

If the pup has responded to you in agression, you grab the pup the way you did and instead of putting it in a crate, you put down the pup without releasing the hold (NOT DROP) somewhere visible to everyone around... This is in opposition of cornering the pup... The pup needs to know that this can be done to him in front of anyone and he does not have to be cornered to be diciplined - or be put in a crate - It will be done right here right now - the husky way.

You keep the pup on ground and gently growl... This will make them react. You continue to growl in the same pitch as the pup reacts and higher if needed but making sure you grown LONGER...

This is a stage where some will say that you are TEMPTING the pup to go agressive.

Keeping in mind that your hold needs to be STRONG enough that you do not let the pup hurt humself or anyone around while letting him know that YOU are allowed to over growl him not the other way round - All you are doing is not letting the pup use force without hurting the pup - It can not be inhumane if a parent wolf does to the pups.

Reason why I am suggesting this COMPLETELY altered approach for you is because of the growl and other ingredients in your post.

Secret here is that YOU HAVE TO KEEP THE PUPPY ON HOLD WITHOUT HURTING HIM... In nature, the adult will GRAB their neck till they ONLY hear them breath...

After 2 minutes, they will be back and playing again.

In the accident you mentioned, I recommend people to always leave their dog and grab the other agressive attacking dog and put them straight into force submission with full body on them (or if a small dog, lift them up not by a collar but naturally by the neck - I say this to people because holding a pup by a collar is a different signal sent than a jaw grabbing the neck - BY collar you are fueling agression, by neck, you are calling it upon yourself. SO you better know how to handle it as well) not letting your dog get a hold of the unleashed dog. If you know how to handle agressive dogs and know how to react to an attack then ONLY do this.

99% of self defense cases of agression are because the owner was not able to take control of the situation - so the dog decided to be the man. In your case the pup had no experience to take things in hands. This is where having two pups comes handy - they know how to respond together irrespective of your reaction.

I may be all wrong but that is what I coul dsuggest after hearing a shock collar to be placed on a husky...

Edited May 30, 2012 by Prince

[Prince]

Keep in mind that till the pup is 7-9 months, you cant really blame a husky breed to not know the word "NO" - Some don't get it their whole life

[mydiamond]

[MENTION=7424]Lazacka[/MENTION] I've been reading your other posts and find a mini mistake here... You say that you marched him to his crate and made sure it won't make him see his crate as a negative thing because it's already bedtime anyways. Well, that's your mistake there.. Nigel didn't see the crate as a punishment. He didn't know that he's being corrected, which is probably why this behavior never stops popping back up every now and then

[Lazacka]

I know this isn't exactly what you were looking for, but I have a two year old husky. She's spoiled, but not rotten. I have no children in the home, but grandchildren often visit. My OH is 'famous' for feeding from the table and for giving in to the husky's every whim.

With that much chaos in her life, and everyone trying to 'teach' her what to do, it only created more chaos. Now, I understand you can't do everything all the time for the pup, but for myself - I found it much easier to rely on myself to do any training and working with her. She got one message and one message only. Much easier for her to learn what is expected of her.

Then, when I got to a static point, I hired a trainer/behaviourist to help me get a bit further (She did not have any issues, I just wanted to keep her mind busy - a busy husky is a happy husky). The trainer I chose had NO background with huskies, and in fact, insisted that by the second session, Ryn would be running round off lead and listening. I said absolutely not, but liked his style otherwise and we continued. The best thing was that he was willing to learn about the breed and/or habits and personality from me as I learned to lead from him. We both learned a lot in those eight one-on-one sessions.

Bottom line - I couldn't have found a better trainer for Ryn and myself. I went with my gut and it was the best decision. Ryn can now sit (what others call sit/stay -- I don't give the command stay for this reason. I told her to sit. And sit means sit until I release her) Recalls (not the best, but we continue to work on it) and most importantly, she looks to me for direction in any situation. That's not to say she doesn't want to chase a squirrel or cat while we're walking!) And she walks at hip (what others call 'heel') when directed to. There's more, but I won't bore you.

Best of luck. Don't give up, but then again, don't make it harder than it has to be. You know the kids aren't helping, but be sure they aren't hindering your progress. If they are. Eliminate their 'help' it's only confusing the pup more.

Thank you Austinville for the inspiration! Happy to hear that Ryn is doing great. I'm working harder with Nigel, he's not even uttering a peep the last 2 nights when I put him to bed in his crate so he's back on the main floor. I am doing the bulk of the training, but it's hard with kids, they would rather play or do it the easy way (not all kids but mine mostly) and this includes my big kid aka hubby than to take the time to make him sit, stay, go and a big "good boy!" after. Trainer isn't coming this week but is emailing my husband some techniques to work with Nigel. I asked about the aggressive behavior and told him about the biting, he said that he meant that he could turn into an "aggressive dog" if we didn't get Nigel under control because he's a very strong willed pup and was showing signs of what he would consider aggressive behavior but didn't mean to label him that. That was the Vet, she's the one who put it in writing and her assistant who is a dog trainer. He also said that Nigel is a smart dog and if we follow his training methods that we will have a very happy dog who will listen and behave. That's all I can ask for, right? He's a nice guy and I'm going to trust him for now, his methods have been working, like I said for a puppy to be 90% loose leash walked and to sit and stay at the door and not cross that threshold without the command is pretty impressive to me. So I'm not giving up, you guys really have lifted my spirits and made me want to just work harder for Nigel. I love the little guy, he's just so sweet when he's good and yes bad when he's bad but that's on me and that's something I fully intend on taking care of. I want this to be Nigel's forever home

[Lazacka]

Aggression???? Pshhh. This dog is %100 Alpha male and it will take an even stronger alpha to "put him in his place" This must be you. When the "pack is finally established as you being the "pack leader" the bond will be deep between you and your dog. Try learning a bit about canine behavior... I took a class on it and it really helped to see why dogs so some of the things they do!

Another hint. Watch wolves in their pack on Discovery channel or online. Watch the "corrections" the alpha gives to his lower ranking members. You will see what is ingrained in him. Dogs like this have a wonderful tendency to become the best dogs ever... with the right leader!!!!

His aggresive behavior is definately aggressive, but I don't think he is an "aggressive" dog as society sees aggressive dogs. The big difference here is ....being dominantly aggressive, or aggressive for no reason. Everyone has given great advice. I hope you stick with it, research, and in the end you'll have a really great bond with a really special dog.

Thank you husky lover!!! I do realize that I am part of the problem and plan on making sure Nigel knows he's part of the pack but that he is in fact NOT the alpha, that is reserved for the humans I appreciate your post, seriously, thanks! I have watched lots of shows on wolves, it's amazing how much the Sibes remind me of them. I also watch Dogs 101 and a few other shows especially when they're featuring Husky's lol...I'm such a Husky snob now! I will keep everyone updated and you said exactly what the trainer said by the way. I'm not going to give up the fight, we're making strides and I'm stepping it up especially for Nigel, we chose him, we brought him into our family, he's our responsibility and I'm going to show the little brat who's boss lol Thanks again for your post!!!

[Lazacka]

Just to chime in with the last poster, watch "living with wolves ". If you search hard enough, you can find the whole documentary on YouTube. Good stuff.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Thanks, I'll definitely watch that!!!

[Lazacka]

5 month sibe pup - between agression and posession.

By the way you have described, it looks like you are bringing the pup from a play mode to an agressive mode by doubting that the pup MAY be agresssive.

When ever I deal with a parent of a Husky specially, I tell them that think of them for a fact that they are agressive. Don't doub't it. (Yes, this is opposite of thinking that he is NOT agressive).

The reason I do this with Husky parents and sometimes depending on the relation between the handler and the pet, this even applies to pits, massts, GSDs and all breeds with jaw power.

Why I say this is because I can not afford to have a dog with me who has a tendency to WARN.

A lot may say that if you stop them from warning, they will find other ways.. yes... that is where you come in to bring that other way. (will explain that later on on how to get the Husky to realize that he can NOT warn even if someone takes away his belowed chew/tow - HE HAS TO ACCEPT IT BEING TAKEN AWAY AT ANY TIME).

Realizing that your pup has shown power (not agression), you need to match him in power. I am not going to talk pack language here because even if your family does not contribute - they will follow you if you do it this way because it will be fun for them as well.

As the pup is still 5 months... get yourself some hardware gloves that cover your hand good for some rough play. This glove will be used ONLY to play with the pup. I know it may sound dumb but when you do it for some time, you realize that it was actually fun.

Your focus here is to put obidience training in the dogs head by making the dog do what he would naturally do - rough play till he learns. Believe it or not - if you see adult Husky/Wolf in nature... they will switch between obidience and play without human even noticing.... mostly.

So here it goes...

Step One: Understand that right now - the dog annoys the family. This has to be reverse. Keeping in mind that the dog does not draw blood... you don't have to make the pup yelp in your play. well if the pup turns twists himself and yelps - that doesn't count as long as your intention was not to fold him like a towel - He will know and depending on your intention, will continue or not the play.

Step Two: Realize that you brought a Husky in your life... First few weeks will be PAINFUL specially if there is only one pup. - Get two Huskies of the same age - different gender. This will be also hard AGAIN in introducing the two for ANOTHER few weeks but your scale of stability will be achieved faster with another pup. WHY? Because the pup will burn out the energy the Husky way. If want to keep one dog... then keep reading...

Step Three: Accept that you have to push the husky to the limits and the pup needs to know that you rule those limits as well.

Huskies are not like GSDs or other dogs - Huskies have a different way of learning - through play and very rough play...

This is what I would do - If the pup is digging somewhere... I would put those gloves on and stand right by the pup when digging. Keep in mind that you have to act as an adult husky/wolf here...

You see the pup digging, you pass your hand by the head hair (let him feel he is being sniffed) and move your hand away - look away and distracted from the pup. This will be when you may hear the growl. If you hear a growl... Stand strong and growl back - but longer and lighter... make it sound like a sound warning.

This will have two reactions... you will see either it is agression warn (will clear your doubt) or a play warn.

Keep in mind - No human talk of puppy no puppy yes and so on...

If you see it was an agression warn... which I am sure you can tell as how confidently you were able to pick the pup up on reacting to the warning he gave you. This is the reaction you need to be ready for...

If the pup tried to even move the jaw close to you... HOLD THE KNECK/HEAD area TIGHT - Don't pick the pup though... Just like the adult husky would hold the pups head to the ground - Be strong and let him GENTLY fight but dont put pressure - Let him know that you can pick him up when ever you want and can control where his jaw goes... Keep in mind, you are neither hurting the pup nor are doing a correction to more than holding the head in the direction you want. If the pup starts to be AGRESSIVE in response and not play (he will be agressive if you hold too tight as well), lift him up so that the situation is not escalated and you can do the practice again.

This will be your changing part: If you can rightaway change your hold to a very light release in a direction (rither left or right) letting them know that - here, I set you free. Imagine an adult husky leaving the pup after behaving, would gently be on a side and a tounge lick followed.

This is what you need to get the pups mind into... use the glove and right away throw the pup gently in any direction from the belly area - like poke lightly... FINE. not poke but you know what I mean... Tell him that you want to play... Keep annoying him and let him go back to digging within 15 seconds... annoy again... let him go back.. annoy again...

HOLD THE PUP BY THE TAIL LIGHTLY AS TO NOT LITERALLY PULL THE WEIGHT of the pup.. just so that if the pup goes towards the hole, the pup will feel the tail get stuck.. Now dont pull and be at one spot... Do it with a LOT of extension in your hand... The adult pup would hold the tail, let the pup lightly go ahead as to not hurt, grab a closer area to feel the pup that he is getting grabbed even closer... and so on... This is another way of telling th epup that you are not allowed to be there in a wild way. If still continues, then bring yourself between the digg and the pup and dont let him get clsoe to the area till th epup gets tired and finds something else... Leave the area, wait for him to try to come again and then wala... you react again and tell him to stay away...

Your focus here is to burn as much evergy in ecersice as you can without even letting the pup know that there is a phase in emotions called agression. It is all Husky play - and it is rough play.

Concept... Tell them that you can PLAY HARD and heep them away from things you want... In a week or so, all you have to do is look at them and they will stay away from the thing and come to you...

This is like treat training (or positive enforcement something) - the husky way.

Now with the gloves part - you should remove one glove at any time to test that the pup can detect bare hand and gloved hand...

Gloved hand = play

No gloved hand = sniff and back in the air - till the pup ignores bare skin and goes to glove play.

Glove introduction is to help people get the pup not to play with ANY bare skin. Some may disagree but if you have a Husky, I only want them to be able to sniff or lick bare skin. Their play is not always play for human infant - that is why all responsible Husky owners will say never leave your kids unattended with the dogs - no matter how loyal you think they are.

Incase you are getting ino the ODD agressive Husky and everyone in the forum is wrong, you take the same concept but in a different tone. Agression means yelp...

You hold the pup down till the pup yelps... Enough that some may say that this is BAD parenting... I don't want my pup to know that agression is acceptable due to which his life may end.

If the pup has responded to you in agression, you grab the pup the way you did and instead of putting it in a crate, you put down the pup without releasing the hold (NOT DROP) somewhere visible to everyone around... This is in opposition of cornering the pup... The pup needs to know that this can be done to him in front of anyone and he does not have to be cornered to be diciplined - or be put in a crate - It will be done right here right now - the husky way.

You keep the pup on ground and gently growl... This will make them react. You continue to growl in the same pitch as the pup reacts and higher if needed but making sure you grown LONGER...

This is a stage where some will say that you are TEMPTING the pup to go agressive.

Keeping in mind that your hold needs to be STRONG enough that you do not let the pup hurt humself or anyone around while letting him know that YOU are allowed to over growl him not the other way round - All you are doing is not letting the pup use force without hurting the pup - It can not be inhumane if a parent wolf does to the pups.

Reason why I am suggesting this COMPLETELY altered approach for you is because of the growl and other ingredients in your post.

Secret here is that YOU HAVE TO KEEP THE PUPPY ON HOLD WITHOUT HURTING HIM... In nature, the adult will GRAB their neck till they ONLY hear them breath...

After 2 minutes, they will be back and playing again.

In the accident you mentioned, I recommend people to always leave their dog and grab the other agressive attacking dog and put them straight into force submission with full body on them (or if a small dog, lift them up not by a collar but naturally by the neck - I say this to people because holding a pup by a collar is a different signal sent than a jaw grabbing the neck - BY collar you are fueling agression, by neck, you are calling it upon yourself. SO you better know how to handle it as well) not letting your dog get a hold of the unleashed dog. If you know how to handle agressive dogs and know how to react to an attack then ONLY do this.

99% of self defense cases of agression are because the owner was not able to take control of the situation - so the dog decided to be the man. In your case the pup had no experience to take things in hands. This is where having two pups comes handy - they know how to respond together irrespective of your reaction.

I may be all wrong but that is what I coul dsuggest after hearing a shock collar to be placed on a husky...

Hi! Thank you so much for your post, that's a lot to take in whew...lol. I was told that you're not suppose to wrestle/play fight with a pup until they're at least 6 months old and wouldn't want to try this with him so young. I also don't know when the e-collar will be used, that may be down the line, I was just told that the trainer uses them and that he suggested we get one for Nigel and basically sooner or later we'll be training him with it. I think we're going to try it first, I don't want to hurt Nigel but I don't want him to hurt anyone else either. I'm working even harder with him now and going to gain my Alpha position back no matter what. thanks for your input and suggestion!!

[Lazacka]

Keep in mind that till the pup is 7-9 months, you cant really blame a husky breed to not know the word "NO" - Some don't get it their whole life

Well that's not encouraging! lol He's actually learned the word "off" and he'll still try to play bite and tug on clothes when he wants our attention (thankfully that's slowed down!) but he's learning "Off" and he let's go immediately....the goes right back to doing the same thing lol