Please tell me this gets easier....

[Staceybob]

I can't believe what im hearing. They're 12 weeks old, if you think pulling is a problem now, wait till they've actually got some weight behind them - theyre a pulling breed. Yes you can teach them to walk to heel but theres always going to be a desire to pull.

Id seriously recommend that you look into another trainer as a trainer advising someone to put a head collar on a pup is just shocking.

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[Staceybob]

Please take the time to watch her loose lead videos as well as this information video I've posted.

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[Niber]

I'd add to get a new command. Obviously at this time "No bite" doesn't work anymore, so try a loud sound that'll catch him off guard.

Also pretty much he respects your boyfriend more than he does you.

On a completely different note from what others said, what worked for my bf to get the biting under control: just like dog mothers when they want to calm their pups, he took his head in his hand and put/pressed it to the ground and said loudly 'no'. Didn't work much for me, as I was too inconsistent with any biting training. It went away when he was 4 months.

I can say, get used to it, huskies are stubborn. Once this is solved, he might find something else, not as hurting, just something.

My Niber was the same - they all are, it's just puppies. I have four kids - my youngest was only three months old when we got him. I tried a few different tactics but because of the kids there could be absolutely no lee-way with aggression, so I too got him by the side of the head, pushed it to the floor and made direct eye contact with a very loud 'NO'. It's not the nicest way and I would try all the other suggestions first. Although it's not nice, it's better than someone getting bitten right? I never hurt Niber doing it, it was just a way to stop him running / looking away from the telling off.

It took only a couple of days for this to work. He is now 9 1/2 months, never drew blood from any of us and my now one year old is following him around the room playing rough with him whilst I write. It's now the baby I have trouble with biting and smacking - but that's for a different forum! Niber learns a lot quicker than Leo. Yours will too. It will get better.

As for biting the lead - I agree this is play, not fighting. Niber's a bugger for pulling and when he gets over excited he chews the lead. Others see it as aggression too, but it's not. Just stop walking when he misbehaves, correct him and carry on.

GOOD LUCK...!

[Niber]

Also - any other dogs you know for yours to pay with? I introduced Niber to a Springer who had low tolerance. If Niber got too excited, the Springer told him off, just as his mother would have done. Works...

I also completely agree with the bite inhibition thing. Dogs use their mouths, and it's not always aggression. I often put my hands in Niber's mouth and on his teeth so he knows how hard is too hard - otherwise what would happen when the baby gets his hand in there - which he does occasionally

Edited November 14, 2012 by Niber

[Talos mom]

I had the same problem with my boy about a month ago but he only did it when there was food around. I tried EVERYTHING and was at a loss my neighbor is a dog trainer and told me i had to get "mean". Since huskies are pack dogs they have pack mentality and respond well to dog like language. I eventually had to put my husky on his back get low to his face and grown until he whimpered then I let him go. After awhile he would come to me for approval so I would pet him and reinforce this with treats every time he acted the way he was supposed to. I only had to do this a few times and he is perfect now. It is very clear who the dominant one is in the house now him and his brother just fight for who can be second haha.

As for the pulling huskies are bred to pull. I would suggest the dog park or somewhere he can rum as long as he wants. Also stimulate that part of his mentality. Buy a halter and have him pull you on a skateboard/bike or even a wagon. If it snows where your at get a sled. This will stimulate him and a guarantee you will see a much happier and well behaved dog! I know i have!

I hope this has been helpful!!!

[Devildust76]

Kodiak gets 'bitey' when he is over-excited. It's always directed at me and is usually a result of playtime gone too far. I am persevering with the stand up, fold arms, and no eye contact method and it is getting better and less frequent. From what I've read and what the OH tells me this is just him pushing his luck with me and I agree that it is very, VERY frustrating but I understand this is also part of the breed dynamic. I have always been the one to body check him (paws, mouth etc), as advised by our trainers, and he has never drawn blood as he doesn't apply much pressure to the bites. He just wants to play a bit rougher than I think is acceptable and it is hard getting him to understand. We've both worked really hard on the commands and he walks extremely well on his own and even as part of a group. We've used a harness on him from the start and he knows the difference between walking the block to walking the trails. He does, however, try and chew his lead when he is bored if we stop for any reason. He just wants to be on the go.

I guess what I am trying to say is that it is all part of the growing up process with these breeds and once the little kinks are ironed out they are very rewarding companions

[soupydoopy]

Please take the time to watch her loose lead videos as well as this information video I've posted.

I swear I replied but I can't see that it posted. Hmm.

That video is SO HELPFUL. I have a harness for him, but I never thought to clip the leash to the FRONT of the harness rather than the ring on the back. That might potentially help with the pulling (or at least hurt him LESS when he DOES pull).

Upon further inspection of the trainer's website, I see in her class requirements she (in very small print) mentions that she will allow standard collar/leashes if not the headcollar (though it's what she prefers--probably because she sells them).

We'll probably make a try with the harness tonight then before we go to puppy playtime (the trainer offers a meet-up three times a week for puppies to socialize, which I appreciate). I am a little more optimistic now.... I sat and cried for about a half an hour yesterday because I couldn't even get Aries to do a basic sit/stay long enough for me to open the door to go outside.

Thanks again for the video, that's just great.

[Staceybob]

I swear I replied but I can't see that it posted. Hmm.

That video is SO HELPFUL. I have a harness for him, but I never thought to clip the leash to the FRONT of the harness rather than the ring on the back. That might potentially help with the pulling (or at least hurt him LESS when he DOES pull).

Upon further inspection of the trainer's website, I see in her class requirements she (in very small print) mentions that she will allow standard collar/leashes if not the headcollar (though it's what she prefers--probably because she sells them).

We'll probably make a try with the harness tonight then before we go to puppy playtime (the trainer offers a meet-up three times a week for puppies to socialize, which I appreciate). I am a little more optimistic now.... I sat and cried for about a half an hour yesterday because I couldn't even get Aries to do a basic sit/stay long enough for me to open the door to go outside.

Thanks again for the video, that's just great.

No problem, I do a lot of loose lead workshops and sessions. My own husky is trained to pull in harness and walk to heel on a collar, so trust me, with time, patience and understanding of why dogs pull, it is very much achievable.

Stacey xxx

[Jay]

I see you already got a of great advice already, so I just wanted to say that it DOES get better!!! Right after I got Nikko I was so upset because I thought I made a huge mistake, and I thought it would never get better. He still has his moments, but he is turned into a great dog! You will definitely see a difference with training too. I did not have high hopes when I started either, but by the end of the second week I already saw improvements.

Don’t worry that the puppy won’t sit for very long, you’re lucky if he can stay for 60 seconds. For the classes here you have to stay for 3 minutes.

Good luck and hang in there!

[reeno]

obvisly he isnt a bad dog because he is good for ur boyfreind wich means he sees him as the domiment one , when he trys to bit you be firm tell him no and what i used to do is grab his mouth over the top and bottom tight so he couldnt open his mouth and pin him down so he couldnt move , it is a drastic thing to do but it depends how much you want him to stop biteing you and everything else he is doin, now my dog 1000% knows who is the boss and i can play fight with him qwite ruff and i will click my fingers he will stop and sit strate away , you need to show him that its your house ur rules and what you say goes dont get upset and down about it, he will be with you for hopefully many years to come and this is just the start

[Staceybob]

Seeing too many recommendations to pin dogs here so I just want to say, I completely and utterly do not advise pinning your dog or grabbing him and getting in his face to show him your the "boss". It is an extremely dangerous practice that could result in you getting seriously injured. To floor a 12 week old pup for this in my opinion would be disgusting. Your dog is there to be your companion, teach them with love and affection what's right and wrong.

Stacey xxx

[reeno]

i dont mean run and jump on top of ur dog to pin them down lol you can sit down next to him and do it dont no how you will seriously injurer youslef doing that. but then again you can let ur dog bite you and wait till he gets older and then you will get a serious injury... also they are dog trainers what will tell you to get your dog and pin them down and roll them over which is a submissive roll so personly i would not worry and if i had any more dogs would do it agian if i needed to now as i said before my dog is brillant and neaither me or him got any serious injurys in the process

[RJS]

i dont mean run and jump on top of ur dog to pin them down lol you can sit down next to him and do it dont no how you will seriously injurer youslef doing that. but then again you can let ur dog bite you and wait till he gets older and then you will get a serious injury... also they are dog trainers what will tell you to get your dog and pin them down and roll them over which is a submissive roll so personly i would not worry and if i had any more dogs would do it agian if i needed to now as i said before my dog is brillant and neaither me or him got any serious injurys in the process

I agree. I have had to pin Kodi a couple if times. As you said, not a run and jump, but simply hold him until he has relaxed. We've been told by our trainer, and shown, who has been trained herself by Victoria Stilwell. Don't get me wrong, positive training does work. But there are exceptional circumstances where either ignoring the bad behaviour or leaving the room simply does not work. You have to bear in mind that both Huskies and Mals have a natural pack instinct, more so than most breeds. If any dog tried apply too much pressure when mouthing, that is what would happen within a pack hierarchy.

The reason behind most puppies applying too much pressure when mouthing stems from being removed from the litter too soon. Pups develop their bite inhibitions during play with their littermates. This normally happens between 6-8 weeks. If the pup doesn't develop these skills, then it's down to the owner to teach the pup, again using positive training. We've only had to pin Kodi a couple of times, only in the past 2 months as he seemed to have completely forgotten his bite pressure.

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[kaiser]

for the biting thing i would use a spray bottle, when he bites spray his face it worked on kaiser

[Jay]

I tried using the spray bottle, but turns out, Nikko loves water, so it was not a deterrent. I would also pin him down, but I do so in a way that does not hurt him. I don't put my whole body weight on him, I just hold him so he calms down. My trainer also advised this. A trainer also suggested that if he bites too much to put your hands in the back of his mouth and he will stop, or to put your thumb in his mouth pressing down lightly under the puppy's tongue.

[Removed #5]

Time for my two cents worth here. Many of you have seen the picture of what Sasha did to my hand after I brought her home. She was an "at large" dog I rescued from a private party who couldn't keep her. Her major problem was food possessiveness and I found out the hard way, I reached for her food bowl and she full on bit me!! I've had her now for the better part of 8 months and the food possessiveness is almost a thing of the past, I can take her bowl *if* I get her attention first. Didn't roll her, didn't beat her just spent a lot of time hand feeding, making her sit and wait - that's an ongoing task, btw.

Y'all are talking about a puppy - they learn quickly, but they don't learn overnight. It takes time and patience --- lot's of time and patience to have a companion who'll want to be the dog you want them to be.

[sjwrx]

Panda pulled really bad when he was a pup, but due to my lack of research on harnesses etc i used one where it actually triggered him to pull. I switched to a front leading harness and it mellowed out. He still pulled here and there, it takes a lot of time and training. he walks loose leash now until he sees another dog/small animal or person running at him.

As for the biting, panda used to mouth a lot around around that age as well. I got everyone, family or people that came over to yelp each time he mouthed too hard, stop play get up and just ignore him. Whether someone was petting him or during playtime everyone did the same thing. Consistency is Key. It won't just disappear overnight, it will take time and patience. Puppies mouth everything and its you that needs to set the boundaries.

[LittleLuka]

mouthing is very common in puppies and even more so in huskies. Luka has gotten loads better and i've never pinned him down or anything. I did like i said buy apple bitter spray and basically wash my hands with it. He doesn't bite them and he learned what type of mouthing is acceptable and what isn't.

This makes me so fortunate we had Knox's sisters with us because i watched them play and when one would bite too hard the others would yelp and they would automatically stop. I just wish Luka would have had this type of important play.

[Niber]

Any progress with Aries?

[soupydoopy]

Any progress with Aries?

Well, the other day I had him out on his tie-out to go potty. I called him to come, he didn't, so I grabbed the rope and gave a slight tug to get his attention. He laid down on the ground and wouldn't budge, so I walked over and reached for his collar..... and he snarled and bit my hand! I've only got two small little punctures from it, but I was naturally really upset about it.

He's not biting as bad, but when he bites too hard and he knows it.... he gets up and runs out of the room before I can say "NO BITE!" or put a punishment down on him (bitter spray, my penny can, etc).... it's a little frustrating, because then we play the "chase the dog around the coffee table for 5 minutes" game. **sighs**

He's been socializing a lot at the puppy classes. He is very shy at first, and will usually hide behind me, but he did manage to find some friends to play with:

Here's hoping puppy class helps. He is really terrible at paying attention, the teacher is going to think I'm a terrible dog owner.

Edited November 16, 2012 by soupydoopy

[LittleLuka]

Well, the other day I had him out on his tie-out to go potty. I called him to come, he didn't, so I grabbed the rope and gave a slight tug to get his attention. He laid down on the ground and wouldn't budge, so I walked over and reached for his collar..... and he snarled and bit my hand! I've only got two small little punctures from it, but I was naturally really upset about it.

He's not biting as bad, but when he bites too hard and he knows it.... he gets up and runs out of the room before I can say "NO BITE!" or put a punishment down on him (bitter spray, my penny can, etc).... it's a little frustrating, because then we play the "chase the dog around the coffee table for 5 minutes" game. **sighs**

He's been socializing a lot at the puppy classes. He is very shy at first, and will usually hide behind me, but he did manage to find some friends to play with:

Here's hoping puppy class helps. He is really terrible at paying attention, the teacher is going to think I'm a terrible dog owner.

i think you're going to be just fine. I thought Luka was horrible and he wound up learning quite a bit in puppy classes and he was not the worst dog the trainer had seen. You're not a terrible dog owner unless you don't try to change his behavior, which you are doing by taking him to training classes.

[Elyse]

i dont mean run and jump on top of ur dog to pin them down lol you can sit down next to him and do it dont no how you will seriously injurer youslef doing that. but then again you can let ur dog bite you and wait till he gets older and then you will get a serious injury... also they are dog trainers what will tell you to get your dog and pin them down and roll them over which is a submissive roll so personly i would not worry and if i had any more dogs would do it agian if i needed to now as i said before my dog is brillant and neaither me or him got any serious injurys in the process

You can get seriously hurt if the dog bites you, which can happen especially if your dog is of the more 'dominant' type.

I wouldn't dare roll my dog, Suka, over. Because he's such a confident/dominant dog, the first (and last) time I tried it, he snarled and would have bit me if I didn't back off.

He's so dominant/confident, he will NOT do the trick "roll over" (he knows how to do it) even for a piece of steak!

Forcing a dog to roll over to submit is like forcing a kid to say "I love/respect you" while beating him, IMO.

It's barbaric, and I wouldn't do it for any dog. The most 'physical' I had to get with Suka is when I grab his scruff - and even then I only do it with the most extreme cases and he knows he's in BIG trouble if I grab his scruff. He lies down right away and yelps.

[Niber]

Well, the other day I had him out on his tie-out to go potty. I called him to come, he didn't, so I grabbed the rope and gave a slight tug to get his attention. He laid down on the ground and wouldn't budge, so I walked over and reached for his collar..... and he snarled and bit my hand! I've only got two small little punctures from it, but I was naturally really upset about it.

He's not biting as bad, but when he bites too hard and he knows it.... he gets up and runs out of the room before I can say "NO BITE!" or put a punishment down on him (bitter spray, my penny can, etc).... it's a little frustrating, because then we play the "chase the dog around the coffee table for 5 minutes" game. **sighs**

He's been socializing a lot at the puppy classes. He is very shy at first, and will usually hide behind me, but he did manage to find some friends to play with:

Here's hoping puppy class helps. He is really terrible at paying attention, the teacher is going to think I'm a terrible dog owner.

What did you do when he bit you? Guy near me rescued a siberian who, whenever the owners tried to bring him inside, he snarled, so they left him. Therefore he was the dominant one. When Adam rescued him, firt time he went to grab Max by the collar he got a nasty bite - because Max had learnt that if he was aggressive, the collar would not be grabbed. Make sure you stand firm - if you want him in, make sure he comes in, don't let him win.

[Storm Angel n Auroras Mum]

i clamped storms.mouth shut and.took him to time out. he was older than 12 weeks when.i did this.

[Niber]

You can get seriously hurt if the dog bites you, which can happen especially if your dog is of the more 'dominant' type.

I wouldn't dare roll my dog, Suka, over. Because he's such a confident/dominant dog, the first (and last) time I tried it, he snarled and would have bit me if I didn't back off.

He's so dominant/confident, he will NOT do the trick "roll over" (he knows how to do it) even for a piece of steak!

Forcing a dog to roll over to submit is like forcing a kid to say "I love/respect you" while beating him, IMO.

It's barbaric, and I wouldn't do it for any dog. The most 'physical' I had to get with Suka is when I grab his scruff - and even then I only do it with the most extreme cases and he knows he's in BIG trouble if I grab his scruff. He lies down right away and yelps.

I agree - this does depend on the dog. As for barbaric - that depends how rough you are. I had to roll Niber, but he learnt within a couple of days. I had to stop biting immediately as my four children were so young. He was not hurt, and I held him in a way that he could not hurt me. It allowed me to look into his eyes and make him listen. Just make sure if you absolutely have to resort to this that it is not done in a 'barbaric' nature. You want the dog to respect you, not fear you.