Getting really tired of Jelly's eating behavior ;-; Seeking advice/help/scolding/etc

[Tatipu]

So... I've been patient with Jelly for a long time about her "drop it, leave it, give it" commands but they ONLY seem to work when (These are all WITH the lead on -- without the lead I have NO power unless I'm holding her collar)

1. For drop it she'll do it after me repeating it after 3-4 times sometimes more...

2. for leave it, I have to say it BEFORE she gets it in her mouth.

3. Give it -- she'll only give it if I have my hand on it.

I really don't know how to teach her better... I've tried constantly to teach her drop it and she learns it, but once that leash is off -- it's ignore me and run away from me. She thinks that I'm chasing her to get the toy (which I am -- so I usually have to wait until she gets close enough for me to lunge at her and take it out)

Unfortunately today I couldn't get to her in time...

First, someone brought some kind of fabric (like the fabric a sock is made out of) I think for their chihuahua so it was a REALLY small toy. I saw it in her mouth and next thing I know, she ate it before I could even act upon it... The regulars there that know me thought it was kind of odd that she eats random crap off the ground and I think so too since my other dog doesn't eat crap ...

Then, my plastic ziploc bag flies away since I just finished giving Jelly her carrot and Jelly chased it and ate that too!

I am very upset by this time but there is nothing I can do -- I can't catch her and even though many people here suggested I teach her to recall -- she doesn't listen to me when I ask her to come back (even in the house so long as she has something that she wants in her mouth)

So I was sitting there and this guy throws a styrofoam football ish thingy(like a nerf ball) and Jelly decides to fetch it. She then precedes to run around with it like any other dog... Then for some stupid reason she started tearing it and eating the pieces that fall off!

This really pissed me off (of course I didn't hit her but I was really aggravated that she could be so stupid..)

A little later someone dropped some kind of ribbon on the ground and Jelly was trying to eat that too ... luckily I jumped her and took it from her with the give it command but still

THIS REALLY ANNOYS ME.

I can't freaking teach this dog to recall/drop it/give it correctly but I can teach her other common commands like sit pretty/roll over/speak/spin with no problem?

I really need some help here or else I feel like I'm going to go crazy... I want to be able to be like those other owners when they call their dog, their dog comes instantly 0 problems and I've been trying really hard -- maybe my methods are incorrect, I don't know but this really has to stop. I can't be watching her 24/7 worrying every minute that I'm not with her that she might be eating something hazardous or potentially dangerous..

(And rest assured I will probably be taking her to the vet tomorrow because she ate a ziploc bag amongst other things that could block her intestine)

TL;DR - Need help teaching dog not to eat shi- she shouldn't be eating. Poor college student can't afford hundred of dollars surgeries each time (esp with no insurance) or constant visits to the vet that charge 25$ on weekdays and 90$ at emergency vet.

Feel free to leave your methods of teaching your dog those commands because I have tried to be consistent but I can't seem to train her while she is offleash.

Edited November 26, 2012 by Tatipu

[Elyse]

If it makes you feel any better, Suka's recall is also very crappy.

Keep in mind, you also have a husky...meaning their recall probably isn't going to be 100% all the time. Due to their natural stubbornness and all that.

Have you tried attracting her back with a treat? I find my boy is very food motivated, and he'll do anything for food.

She's also 8 months old. That means she's now a 'teenager', and just like human teenagers, she'll try to rebel, won't listen to most things you tell her to do, and will be testing her boundaries more.

I'm sorry I don't have any actual advice, but that's because I've never went through the puppy stage (thankfully...!?).

I'm sure somebody else will chime in, though...

[Removed #5]

Did she really put recall and Husky in the same sentence??? Didn't we teach her any better than that??

[Tatipu]

;-; Al, LOL. People posted on this forum before saying it could be done. At least that's what I remember from one of the comments on my other thread so I'm assuming it can be done if other people say recall for a husky can be done... D: .

[Bec]

I think you really need to invest in seeing a professional trainer or going to a good obedience class. Getting frustrated/pissed off with her won't help you - she doesn't know any better or she wouldn't do those things. A good trainer will be able to show you how to apply methods that will help you and Jelly gain success. Reading your posts on the forum about Jelly's behaviour, I think you really need to get some help with training outside of the internet and the advice you can get from the internet is limited when we can't see your dog.

Personally as someone who works in the dog training industry I don't agree with people who say huskies can't be taught x y or z, especially when it comes to recall. ANY dog can be taught to recall reliably, it's about finding the right method for the dog and owner. I know that's not a popular opinion on this forum, but it is my experience.

[Tatipu]

Thanks [MENTION=107]Bec[/MENTION], any idea on how to find a good obedience trainer? (I was going to bring her to obedience classes when I first got her but I got lazy ;-; Shame on me)

I prefer to look for someone that specializes in huskies as it seems, many people where I live fear my dog since it looks like a "wolf" and there aren't many husky owners around me that I see often so my sources are very limited on finding a reliable trainer..

Or should I just be looking for a obedience trainer in general? As it's been said, huskies are very different than other breeds and I'd much rather invest time into someone that knows what s/he is doing.

Currently googling husky trainer in houston but we'll see..

[Elyse]

If you have a PetSmart near you, I'd go and watch a few classes (they should allow that, as long as you just watch.) to see if they know what they're talking about. Go on different days of the week, too, cause different people work on different days.

While Petsmart isn't the ideal place, its better than nothing if you can't find a professional private trainer that doesn't shy away. (Petsmart trainers work on commission, so more often than not they'll accept your dog...just be careful to think about it and to not fall for any of their pitches if they don't seem to know what they're talking about!)

[LittleLuka]

Luka used to eat everything. We took him to petsmart and our trainer worked with us on the leave it command which has really helped.

It takes time and patience. Also if you're repeating a command multiple times its basically useless. Our trainer taught us one time and that's it. We started out with hand signals I can put my had flat out upside down with my three fingers out and luka will automatically sit without me saying a word.

Luckily our trainer has experience with huskies so we were lucky.

[Elyse]

Yeah, Alex, I was also taught to teach the action first (with visual cues from me) and then connect the word to it. Apparently it helps them understand what you want first, and then once they have it down-pat you connect the word to the action.

[Bec]

Thanks @Bec, any idea on how to find a good obedience trainer? (I was going to bring her to obedience classes when I first got her but I got lazy ;-; Shame on me)

I prefer to look for someone that specializes in huskies as it seems, many people where I live fear my dog since it looks like a "wolf" and there aren't many husky owners around me that I see often so my sources are very limited on finding a reliable trainer..

Or should I just be looking for a obedience trainer in general? As it's been said, huskies are very different than other breeds and I'd much rather invest time into someone that knows what s/he is doing.

Currently googling husky trainer in houston but we'll see..

Training isn't breed specific, it's dog specific, so I'd be looking for a trainer who has a lot of experience working with dogs that have similar behaviour problems to you. Word of mouth is the best way to find a reputable trainer, look at what kind of results their clients get with their dogs and what feedback they give. Go with a trainer you find a rapport with, a good trainer should make you feel at ease and comfortable when you talk to them, they shouldn't make you feel stupid and should explain things to you clearly in a way you can easily understand.

[Austinville]

Ryn and I went to a trainer (not because I was having any problems, but because Ryn was bored and had stopped listening to me)...........after talking with three, (One wouldn't accept a husky in class, one would but was determined that she should be offlead in a group of other dogs, including yappy little ones that she would undoubtably 'discipline', and the third who had absolutely no experience with huskies). I chose the last one, because he was willing to work one-on-one and had no preconceptions about the breed.

It was refreshing. The first day Ryn plowed over me to get out of the car, nearly pulled my arm off trying to get into the kennels and basically refused to listen to anything I had to say. By the second class (typically 20 to 40 minutes long) she was asking me for direction and behaving like an angel. I do have to admit that I've worked with her since she was 8 weeks old and the trainer could tell that. He said we'd just lost our groove and it was my problem, not Ryn's.

She now walks at hip (what you might call 'heel' - I just don't want her one step behind me, I want her head to be even with my hip when we walk.) She sits in position until released and asks direction when we are in new situations.

As far as 'leave it' - I think you've gotten that command, just keep working with it. I use 'leave it' for precisely what you indicated you are doing - you don't want the husky to pick up an item, and you tell them to leave it.

The key with 'leave it', 'drop it', and 'on by' are when you give the command. If I see something coming up along the trail and I don't want Ryn to bother with it (and she's shown me that she is interested in it - by a glance in that direction, or perhaps a double-take at it) I use 'on by'. This command is used by us as an indicator that I want her to continue in the manner we are proceeding.

The next step would be 'leave it'. This would be used for something that has captured her attention and she's showing a great interest in, perhaps even pulling slightly in that direction.

I use 'drop it' when she's picked up something I don't want her to have. She knows that I can, and WILL, stick my hand entirely down her throat to retrieve an object that she has picked up. They must know you mean what you are asking them to do. IMO, this command is best taught on lead so that you can retain control of the situation.

The three commands are used in progression. You need to know precisely what you want the husky to do and they, in turn, must understand precisely what you are asking. Caution should be used in which term you use and what action you are searching for from the husky.

What I learned that made the absolute most sense for me during our trainings was to give the command that you truly want the husky to follow. For instance, if we are in the house and I see that Ryn is loosing her patience and wanting to discipline the grandkids, she would hear 'leave it'. If she has picked up their toys, she would hear 'drop it'.

It's not so much about training the husky, as training yourself to ask for what you mean. For instance, many use the 'sit-stay' command. I don't. When I ask Ryn to sit, that's what I mean. I don't mean for her to sit and then move on when she wishes. Sit means 'Sit until I release you'.

We also use the command 'wait'. I use this when we're in the car and I have to get out to go into a store, or when I want her to wait patiently in one spot (for instance when someone is coming into the house and I don't want her to bolt out the door.)

The key is to ask for what you mean in simple terms and with an authoritative voice. You're not asking them to obey, you're commanding them.

A good trainer will help you learn the difference and teach you to speak a language that the husky will understand. The husky learns to trust you in any given situation.

And, by the way, the trainer/behaviourist I ended up with was less expensive than the other two, worked one on one with us and was a godsend!

Best of luck and do your research. Understand that the difficulty you are having doesn't always mean it is the huskys problem.......most likely it is a lack of understanding between your language and theirs. A good trainer will help you to understand each other, so to speak.

[LittleLuka]

Ryn and I went to a trainer (not because I was having any problems, but because Ryn was bored and had stopped listening to me)...........after talking with three, (One wouldn't accept a husky in class, one would but was determined that she should be offlead in a group of other dogs, including yappy little ones that she would undoubtably 'discipline', and the third who had absolutely no experience with huskies). I chose the last one, because he was willing to work one-on-one and had no preconceptions about the breed.

It was refreshing. The first day Ryn plowed over me to get out of the car, nearly pulled my arm off trying to get into the kennels and basically refused to listen to anything I had to say. By the second class (typically 20 to 40 minutes long) she was asking me for direction and behaving like an angel. I do have to admit that I've worked with her since she was 8 weeks old and the trainer could tell that. He said we'd just lost our groove and it was my problem, not Ryn's.

She now walks at hip (what you might call 'heel' - I just don't want her one step behind me, I want her head to be even with my hip when we walk.) She sits in position until released and asks direction when we are in new situations.

As far as 'leave it' - I think you've gotten that command, just keep working with it. I use 'leave it' for precisely what you indicated you are doing - you don't want the husky to pick up an item, and you tell them to leave it.

The key with 'leave it', 'drop it', and 'on by' are when you give the command. If I see something coming up along the trail and I don't want Ryn to bother with it (and she's shown me that she is interested in it - by a glance in that direction, or perhaps a double-take at it) I use 'on by'. This command is used by us as an indicator that I want her to continue in the manner we are proceeding.

The next step would be 'leave it'. This would be used for something that has captured her attention and she's showing a great interest in, perhaps even pulling slightly in that direction.

I use 'drop it' when she's picked up something I don't want her to have. She knows that I can, and WILL, stick my hand entirely down her throat to retrieve an object that she has picked up. They must know you mean what you are asking them to do. IMO, this command is best taught on lead so that you can retain control of the situation.

The three commands are used in progression. You need to know precisely what you want the husky to do and they, in turn, must understand precisely what you are asking. Caution should be used in which term you use and what action you are searching for from the husky.

What I learned that made the absolute most sense for me during our trainings was to give the command that you truly want the husky to follow. For instance, if we are in the house and I see that Ryn is loosing her patience and wanting to discipline the grandkids, she would hear 'leave it'. If she has picked up their toys, she would hear 'drop it'.

It's not so much about training the husky, as training yourself to ask for what you mean. For instance, many use the 'sit-stay' command. I don't. When I ask Ryn to sit, that's what I mean. I don't mean for her to sit and then move on when she wishes. Sit means 'Sit until I release you'.

We also use the command 'wait'. I use this when we're in the car and I have to get out to go into a store, or when I want her to wait patiently in one spot (for instance when someone is coming into the house and I don't want her to bolt out the door.)

The key is to ask for what you mean in simple terms and with an authoritative voice. You're not asking them to obey, you're commanding them.

A good trainer will help you learn the difference and teach you to speak a language that the husky will understand. The husky learns to trust you in any given situation.

And, by the way, the trainer/behaviourist I ended up with was less expensive than the other two, worked one on one with us and was a godsend!

Best of luck and do your research. Understand that the difficulty you are having doesn't always mean it is the huskys problem.......most likely it is a lack of understanding between your language and theirs. A good trainer will help you to understand each other, so to speak.

we worked on leave it and drop it while Luka was on lead. Another tip [MENTION=7701]Tatipu[/MENTION] would be to line up toys and on a short lead walk up and down the line while going over leave it and drop it. We also would take a treat in each hand and hold one of the hands down for him to smell. Luka would try to get it out of my hand and i would say Leave it. When he would stop and leave it alone i woudl hand him the treat that was in my OTHER hand. I said Take it when i handed him this one. Now i can drop a treat on the ground and say leave it and he won't get it till i let him.

[Austinville]

we worked on leave it and drop it while Luka was on lead. Another tip @Tatipu would be to line up toys and on a short lead walk up and down the line while going over leave it and drop it. We also would take a treat in each hand and hold one of the hands down for him to smell. Luka would try to get it out of my hand and i would say Leave it. When he would stop and leave it alone i woudl hand him the treat that was in my OTHER hand. I said Take it when i handed him this one. Now i can drop a treat on the ground and say leave it and he won't get it till i let him.

Ryn can do the same. I place her in a 'sit', and can throw high value treats all the way around her and she won't move towards them. When given the 'release' command, she comes to me for a treat, never once trying to get the treats that were placed around her.

I found that when training this it helped to bypass allowing her to take the treats which had been tossed around her. They are to be left where they lay. They've hit the ground and are no longer treats.....they are trash. This "trick" helps to enforce the 'leave it' command.

[Elyse]

Wow...you two make me feel bad! I've had Suka for 3 years and his 'leave it' isn't that good (but its good enough that if I say it, he'll hesitate for a few seconds...enough time for me to pick up whatever fell on the floor.

I think it would be impossible for Suka to ignore any kind of food...I would think food is the main reason why he bothers to get up in the morning, the lazy bugger. LOL